This is what traveling is all about


Only half an hour ago James and I were scoping out hay bales as potential places to sleep. Now we’re sipping lemon Radlers on the porch of our riverside cabin while our gracious host is going to the store to grab us some groceries.

We left Kalocsa this morning and cycled for about 4 hours to cross the Hungarian Serbian border and then another half hour or so to cross the Serbian Croatian border. That’s three countries in an hour – a personal record. Only a couple kilometers from the border is a small one street village called Batina. The only reason we decided to come here was that I saw it on another itinerary and it added another country to the trip. Yes lame I know.

Anyways we arrive into Batina just as the sun is disappearing and find the only accommodation there. It’s a house that looks like the basement is used for a guest house. We rang the bell 3 times but no answer.

Back up the road I had seen a convenience store so I thought maybe the owner might speak English. Well she didn’t. However after we explained that the only accommodation was closed she got on the blower and called up someone. As a show of good faith we bought some snacks.

After about ten minutes a woman came in the store and introduced herself to us. No English but she did speak Deutsch. Seriously another win for a speaking a bit of German. We took our snacks in her car and we followed her ravenously on our bikes for about 3 km out of town to a riverside cabin.

She showed us around the cabin and when I asked if there was a restaurant nearby she said no but offered to grab us groceries. I asked for Brot, Käse, and Wurst. There was some confusion about how many sausages to buy. She offered twenty but that seemed like too many so I suggested half a kilo which she said was too much, so anyways just a general confusion.

So right now we’re chilling on the patio hoping she also brought back some beer.

Ok no beer but she has a bottle of billige Palinka Schnaps. So now the fireplace is blazing, the schnapps is burning, and the stereo is blasting Balkan beat hip hop. Amazing!

PS fuck Austria. No begging for musli here.

Croatia dishes curious looks and warm hospitality like Austria dishes out sad frowns

James McKerricher

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